My saying at the bottom of my posts is applicable today: "The first time you quit is the last time you try." Well today in the early afternoon, there was not one swingin' di** in the water. It was cold, colder than the 56-58 reading by surfline.com. I give it a testicle & weenie shrinking 54 degrees. And rough and angry, just like myself as a teenager. I could not get out past the surf. The surf was 3 foot pounding waves one after another without much of an interval between them at all to catch one's breath.
I lasted an embarrassing 6 minutes from the time I was waist high and swimming out until the time I turned around, headed toward the beach, and was able to stand again.
I didn't have any air today, and my mind was weak; well, it's always weak, but today it was weaker than usual. The current was pulling me to the south-about 100 yards in those 6 minutes.
The ocean doesn't look bad at all in these photos, and indeed in real life watching them from the sand. However, they were bigger and nastier than they appear; you just have to be IN it to appreciate what Mother Nature is throwin' out there. Nevertheless, I tried, and that counts enough for me today.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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