The sun was moving toward its area of descent at about 3:30 PM today. The sun shone so brightly that it was difficult to see outward from the sand. There's lots of shimmering water on a day like today.
We had a little rain two days ago and the water was still stirred up and a bit choppy. Waves were about one to three feet occasionally. I got in thinking I would swim out to the end of the pier and back but it didn't turn out that way.
The area above in the picture had about ten surfers when I was in. They were happy with a two-foot wave that would give them several seconds of rush. I went in on the right side (north side) of this pier picture to the tune of about one hundred yards--that is to be courteous and stay out of the territory of the surfers. My goggles stayed dirty and fogged up as I was swimming out--I guess it's time to throw them away--and I couldn't see well as I swam. There were two breaks today. I was out of the surfers' way on my right and left on the first break, but before I hit the bigger break outside I caught sight of two surfers on my right. I swam left to evade, and one of them caught a wave and headed right toward my head. I made myself under the surface instantly, and in time, because this fellow wanted to run over my head. He missed, I got under, and I continued swimming out past the bigger waves.
I don't really feel anger about it--more of a sadness that a person is feeling and acting out in such a manner. Anyway, I continue swimming a couple of minutes and I have to stop because I have no air. I'm feeling tight around my neck and head, constricted, and short of breath. I decided the heck with it--swim a few minutes and get out. I didn't even go out far and I only spent twelve minutes in the water. Let me look up the temperature now: 58-60 per surfline.com. Sounds accurate. I guess that's my report for today.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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