Thursday, October 19, 2017

Ten minutes or so in the Oceanside beach today.

I have built up this imaginary psychological wall to keep me out of the water.  It has been preventing me from trying to make progress with my back issues.  Recently my son has been surfing at the same area of the Pier and making strong progress in his aquatic development.  Today, after he surfed early in the morning, I was awake to interrogate him about the conditions.

It struck me that my own aquatic life has passed me by for months and months.  Since I am a step-by-step guy, I dropped $1.50 in the parking meter for one hour of time.  I don't have a good wetsuit anymore so I used this waist-up neoprene jacket.  It was fine.  The water was absolutely light blue and gorgeous--big waves closing out on the south side--solid four-footers.

I'll return tomorrow.  Funny how we just have to break through that invisible barrier we have constructed in our minds.  I didn't go out to any big waves.  My left leg and low back didn't want to hold up my weight--ouch.

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Sunday, January 8, 2017

Flat, flat, flat water. Lowww tide.

I got down to the beach today and conditions were unbelievable.  Blue sky, low tide, small but well-shaped waves, and... what should I call 'aura' of mellow beachitude.  I just made up that word.  Maybe a mixture of a mellow beach attitude.  But, that's no good.  The attitude part has a negative connotation.
Freedom...relaxation...stress dropping off....  That peaceful water today was good--a special day.

The water was cold.  I swam on and off for about 25 minutes.  I wore the fins to give my back some resistance.  Making progress. 

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Saturday, January 7, 2017

Energized by the Chill

Same conditions as yesterday.  I wore the fins in case I wanted to go out, but I didn't.  There were six young Marines on the sand daring each other to go in.  When I got in, I think they realized that if that old, fat guy could go in, then they could.  Promptly, the six of them ran in--playing like little kids.  Good for them!
I swam a little and felt good.  Need to work on my wind.  You know how the cold water makes your pulse race and your breathing fast & shallow?  That was me.  I tried to slow it down but that will come later.  It's a process.  Little by little, step by step...

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Friday, January 6, 2017

Fifteen minutes in Cold Water at the Pier

I took six or so pictures but this pic is the only one I can get.  I got in with trunks and played around a bit.  It was too cold for me to venture out.  The mind was weak.  Flat water with gentle, undulating swells out there.  It looked like the waves were just as high as three feet but once I was out there about 75 yards, the waves were beautiful, strong, and big.  Five feet high for the big ones, but a beautiful shape.  There was not a single person in the water north of the Pier but me for a little while.
I body-surfed a 3-4 foot wave and got an unusually long ride for me.  Very refreshing and satisfying.

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."