Easy Day For Me Today

The waves were bigger than usual but not as big as yesterday.  I'd say they were up to 7-8 feet at the biggest today.  Tons of surfers and great surf.  I just went in for 20 minutes.  I didn't have much energy today so I just wore the fins and wandered around the surfers-out past them-and watched them. 

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Big Waves Today! Fun! Kicked Around the Pier With Fins in the Swells!

Wow!  After work I hit the beach and the surf was rocking!  Big waves.  The good surfers were out in abundance.  Lots of them are so young, too.  I put my trunks and fins on and was surprised that the water felt warm to me today.  I was in for 36 minutes and didn't get cold.  Surfline.com still has the temp at 57-59 degrees but it was more like 63 to me.  I was careful today and studied the waves for 8 minutes or so before I chose a spot and a time to kick out when it was a calmer break in the action.  I did well.  Out past the breakers was great.  I love it there on a day like this.  I love to be moving gently up and down with a big swell that's building before it grows and becomes a breaking wave.  I love the sight of the back side of the waves.  These bigger sets were 10 foot waves.  The surfers were catching the waves, getting their rides, and then flying high off the end of the wave to exit so they didn't have to get all smashed up after the wave smashed into white water. 
On the way in it was scary-except that I don't get scared-so it wasn't scary for me-trying to find a safe time to get in without getting crunched by a giant wave.  About 6 times I was caught in-between a big wave about to break on me and some rough surf.  I had to swim out fast to get under the big waves and wait for a calmer time.  I love that stuff!  The whole 36 minutes today was great.  Exercise, adrenaline, beauty, setting sun, blue sky, everything past the breakers all mine.  Today was a good day at the beach!  A special one!  Thank you, Jesus! Or Mother Nature!  Or Oceanside!  But no camera today-argghhh...

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Nice Swim Conditions and Cold.

Very low tide this afternoon.  About 2-3 dozen surfers out today.  The waves were mostly closing out but corners were available for some good rides out there.  I was cold today.  My swim around the pier was 28 minutes in a very, very flat ocean.  I was without fins and tried to think about my form to keep my mind off the cold.  The water had a pretty green color to ir under a cloudy sky.
Some people on the sand after told me that I had dolphins around me out there, but I didn't notice while swimming. 

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

Super Bowl Sunday Oceanside Pier Swim

The beach was quiet this afternoon when I swam at about 1 PM.  The town is quiet too; everybody is getting ready for the Super Bowl Game.
The tide was very low and the current was flowing steadily southward-just like yesterday.  I had a 30 minute swim in some cold water.  I got used to the water after ten minutes but then got cold again at about twenty minutes.  The waves were 1 to 4 feet-the bigger waves being on the south side.  I got crunched hard by a wave swimming in.  There were very few surfers at the beach today; I guess they were home preparing for the game.
The water was a little sloppy and choppy at the end of the pier.  My swimming felt weak and slow.  Probably because it is-ha ha.
Anyway, I got my swim in and felt good.

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."