Saturday, March 29, 2025

Friday 5 pm Harbor


Yesterday late afternoon I got in the water for a short stint. 
Cloudy, few beachgoers, no water visibility, few surfers, and strong waves rushing in every ten seconds, straight on, with lousy surf conditions. 
The water was quite rough and angry, with the outer waves pounding this man, who wanted to kick out through the 4-5 footers and achieve comfort past the breakers. No such thing occurred. 
In front of the big waves, one surging after another, consistently, I had to use my safety discretion and ease back in toward the safety of sand. 
I broke out my old, trusty swimmer's lifejacket yesterday, wore it, but didn't need to use it.
I somehow developed this no-wind-in-my-lungs condition, I don't know why, but it's unpleasant and limits my physical output. I think it's a forever condition.
Despite rough waves and a lack of air, I enjoyed the brisk water; it was worth the trip.


"The first time you quit is the last time you try."





Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Oceanside Harbor Beach Surf Contest High School


I have been dry for a few weeks due to general malaise and ongoing, boring pain. Yesterday, Monday morning, I was up early and felt okay. Lots of coffee.
To my surprise, many people were frolicking at my beach. I typically expect my beach to be sparingly populated with an ample supply of parking spaces. Uh, oh, a big sign read "State Championship High School Surfing."
Also, I think it may be the start of Spring Break, as the adjacent beaches were populated with families.

We are so fortunate here; I'll repeat it again & again. Even if I did have to walk 100 yards or 200 to get my feet wet. 
The water was notably warmer Monday with the usual 2-foot visibility. The ocean was calm, flat, lovely with waves of moderate shape...about 3-4 feet. Good enough for a decent surf contest but not great.

I walked to the south side of the south rock jetty as the north side was populated with surf families and fun. 
I have had to come to accept that my vigorous swim activity days are gone. As years pile up, I add maladies to my list of body malfunctions. My recent addition is a diaphragm problem which really decreases the volume of air that I can take in when I breathe. Under exercise stress, the air intake causes shortness of breath and chest tightness. It's termed 'Significant hemi-diaphragm elevation right side.'

My swims now will be more like mild dips in the water with a bit  of kicking with the fins. The big waves are off limits now due to a senior citizen's safety and discretion.

That's the way it was yesterday. I enjoyed it anyway. Thanks. 


"The first time you quit is the last time you try."