Thursday, February 20, 2014
I even had a mildly hard time kicking through the surf zone. Out of shape. The water was beautiful and clean. Strong surge to the south. More people than usual enjoying it. I kicked it out for twenty minutes and called it a day. Very nice.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
Posted by Brendan Drury at 3:21 PM
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
I think about going to get in the water every day, but the body is weak, and at times the mind is too. This morning I didn't have much back pain and I was ready to go. The problem was my edge. What's that? Well, my edge is my nerve, my wild streak. I sat in the La-Z-Boy for more than an hour knowing that I had to go in the water but not having the guts to do it. What does Nike say? "Just Do It." If only the whole thing were just that easy.
67 degrees at our house. 68 at the water. More folks than usual getting sun under the lightly-clouded sky. A dozen surfers near the pier. The waves were a solid four feet with a short interval of time between them: 9 seconds. They were coming in and breaking straight parallel to the sand, no angle to them for the surfers to ride. I went in with swim suit and it was cold: 58 degrees. My fingers got numbed up after a few minutes. The problem was that trying to get out (past the breakers) was problematic. I'm diving under waves and coming up to face another wave in a few seconds. I kept repeating this scenario over and over. There was a stong south current today that pulled me toward the pier. (I got in north of the pier a ways). I couldn't get out. Needed fins. I came back in and looked for shells and felt the enterprise was a success for me. It helped me work on getting my edge back and made me feel good. The water was beautiful. Clean, foamy, refreshing.
Posted by Brendan Drury at 4:32 PM