Thursday, October 19, 2017
I have built up this imaginary psychological wall to keep me out of the water. It has been preventing me from trying to make progress with my back issues. Recently my son has been surfing at the same area of the Pier and making strong progress in his aquatic development. Today, after he surfed early in the morning, I was awake to interrogate him about the conditions.
It struck me that my own aquatic life has passed me by for months and months. Since I am a step-by-step guy, I dropped $1.50 in the parking meter for one hour of time. I don't have a good wetsuit anymore so I used this waist-up neoprene jacket. It was fine. The water was absolutely light blue and gorgeous--big waves closing out on the south side--solid four-footers.
I'll return tomorrow. Funny how we just have to break through that invisible barrier we have constructed in our minds. I didn't go out to any big waves. My left leg and low back didn't want to hold up my weight--ouch.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
Posted by Brendan Drury at 3:06 PM