Wow! After work I hit the beach and the surf was rocking! Big waves. The good surfers were out in abundance. Lots of them are so young, too. I put my trunks and fins on and was surprised that the water felt warm to me today. I was in for 36 minutes and didn't get cold. Surfline.com still has the temp at 57-59 degrees but it was more like 63 to me. I was careful today and studied the waves for 8 minutes or so before I chose a spot and a time to kick out when it was a calmer break in the action. I did well. Out past the breakers was great. I love it there on a day like this. I love to be moving gently up and down with a big swell that's building before it grows and becomes a breaking wave. I love the sight of the back side of the waves. These bigger sets were 10 foot waves. The surfers were catching the waves, getting their rides, and then flying high off the end of the wave to exit so they didn't have to get all smashed up after the wave smashed into white water.
On the way in it was scary-except that I don't get scared-so it wasn't scary for me-trying to find a safe time to get in without getting crunched by a giant wave. About 6 times I was caught in-between a big wave about to break on me and some rough surf. I had to swim out fast to get under the big waves and wait for a calmer time. I love that stuff! The whole 36 minutes today was great. Exercise, adrenaline, beauty, setting sun, blue sky, everything past the breakers all mine. Today was a good day at the beach! A special one! Thank you, Jesus! Or Mother Nature! Or Oceanside! But no camera today-argghhh...
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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