The waves were bigger than usual but not as big as yesterday. I'd say they were up to 7-8 feet at the biggest today. Tons of surfers and great surf. I just went in for 20 minutes. I didn't have much energy today so I just wore the fins and wandered around the surfers-out past them-and watched them.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
Look at that beautiful offshore breeze-how it feathers up the tops of those waves as they curl-that's special stuff.
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