Thursday, February 9, 2012

Easy Day For Me Today









The waves were bigger than usual but not as big as yesterday.  I'd say they were up to 7-8 feet at the biggest today.  Tons of surfers and great surf.  I just went in for 20 minutes.  I didn't have much energy today so I just wore the fins and wandered around the surfers-out past them-and watched them. 

"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

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