The water looked rough and choppy-hardly any surfers in the water. I wore the fins, which turned out to be a good idea. I got in on the north side and the inside current was a moderate rip current running north to south. I had somewhat of a hard time kicking out through the surf zone with the current pulling me toward the pier and the waves up to 5 feet. It was hard getting out before getting too close to the pilings. Without fins, I would have had to go back in to the beachand, either give up or walk farther north up the beach to have more time to allow for the rip.
It was hard to swim out, so I kicked out on my back mostly. I swam around and headed back in. The good swell amidst the chop, helped swim me in. Only 3 surfers out on the south side. None on the north side when I went in.
I caught one big way and body-surfed it in-a decent ride until I ran out of air. With this bad respiratory cold that is lingering, my air is for s***.
The water wasn't very cold. Glad I got wet after taking off Friday & Saturday sick.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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