Friday, January 6, 2017
Fifteen minutes in Cold Water at the Pier
I took six or so pictures but this pic is the only one I can get. I got in with trunks and played around a bit. It was too cold for me to venture out. The mind was weak. Flat water with gentle, undulating swells out there. It looked like the waves were just as high as three feet but once I was out there about 75 yards, the waves were beautiful, strong, and big. Five feet high for the big ones, but a beautiful shape. There was not a single person in the water north of the Pier but me for a little while.
I body-surfed a 3-4 foot wave and got an unusually long ride for me. Very refreshing and satisfying.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
Posted by Brendan Drury at 3:06 PM