So with the raining intermittently for the last week, the water is dirty. It has been rough but Thursday, late afternoon was neat. Waves were almost continuous, little interval between waves and surges. Out there the swells were in the 4 to 7 foot range, I'd say. It was not as washing-machine rough as yesterday but still no piece of cake. I just love the smoother swells past the breakers before they break! There's something special about being in that power that just floats on by you, lifting you up and down gently as it passes you, only to develop and crash ten seconds later closer in.
I tried to get pictures of the big waves coming in-there are a few pictures where one can appreciate the size of the waves. Still, it's always bigger when you're in it.
I know that the dirty water is going to get me sick, and this morning I have a head cold. My sinuses don't drain and that dirty water gets stuck up there and brews. I just hit the inhalers (nasal and oral), the antihistamines, etc. and pay the price for the thrill.
Many more surfers out there yesterday, drawn by the big waves. Those guys and ladies amaze me; they RUN toward that water; they just can't wait to get into the big stuff.
I took several pictures that I'll post here.
My swim was strenuous but relaxing. No pain, except for one time when a four footer crashed into my head and it felt like it jarred my metal bar in my spine to the core. Felt like it might loosen the darn thing. That's what I get for not ducking under the big ones.
Safety gear: fins, webbed gloves, swimmer's safety vest (yellow for visibility to watercraft).
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