Saturday postscript: The water was warmer yesterday (Friday) - probably 60 degrees far out and 58 inside. As I was swimming closer to the end of the pier, I was thinking that Ruby's Diner (I think that's the name) must be washing the dishes with hot water draining into the ocean. Just kidding.
When I swam in it got cold again. I just checked surfline.com and it looks like the conditions are the same today as yesterday.
The Ironman short triathlon went off this morning and the pier area will be crowded until late this afternoon. I have to get a swim in later today (Saturday) to keep alive. I'm not wearing fins this afternoon. I'll just go where the water wants to take me. My toenail that got crushed under my Laz-E-Boy about 11 days ago is off and still raw. Yesterday I had it wrapped up under the fin but it got rubbed. I'll probably be looking at going north to south if the current is like yesterday; I hope so.
But look at these pictures from Friday at 5 PM - don't you just want to be all inside of that water? You want to be in the surf zone getting smashed by 4 feet of white water or holding your breath to stay under long enough for it to pass over you. Heck yeah. You want to be past the white water looking at the swells building - soon to pass under you harmlessly or take you in for a adrenaline ride. I look at these pictures, and my pictures are crummy, and I just want to jump from the pier and be right in that rough stuff. Too bad that's not allowed. I always like when it's rough like this and you have a hard time getting out through the pounding surf, hoping that your energy and breath hold out long enough; and then you break through into the clear where the surfers wait and catch your breath. Yesterday past the waves the water was flat and great for swimming-no chop to it.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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