It was 64 degrees at the beach today but it felt warmer. The sun was bright and the warmth was palpable. Really beautiful. More people there enjoying the warm conditions; you could play in the water to your waist and get warmed up by the sun. Let me check surfline.com for the water temp. It felt a bit warmer than yesterday so I'll guess 59. And the answer is: 55-57. Wow. That tells you how much I know.
The surf was bigger than usual and the surf zone was very deep--about 150 yards of surf to swim through. The outside waves were 6 foot. You can't tell that from my photos. Also I didn't think it was that big as I studied the water before I went in. The interval between waves was small, maybe 5-10 seconds.
I went in and swam hard for 7 minutes to get through that surf zone; I rested for a minute after it. With the current moving north to south I faced the common "get out past the waves before you get dragged into the pier" scenario. Mission accomplished.
The ocean was flat but it had neat, large swells out 300-400 yards. Very pretty and easy to swim through.
The south side had bigger waves and I got wiped out 2-3 times by some big white water. Just a beautiful afternoon and an exciting swim. 34 minutes to get around the pier.
"The first time you quit is the last time you try."
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