Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Monday August 10th, Surfrider Beach

     It was not crowded Monday at 6 PM for my dip in the ocean so I was happy.  There was an unmarked police car working its way through the alley streets and side streets in the Surfrider area today.  Good.  Various homeless types, druggies, and ne'erdowells were about doing their furtive thing.
     Water.  First, because the sand was near empty, I just enjoyed looking at it.  I like when the sun is moving downward to its resting place for the night.  It still had a good hour to go but it's a neat time of afternoon.  Same warm water, sloppy chop, and mild rip south to north.
     I got into the blue sudsy stuff and headed out--no big waves--and floated a bit.  Not to brag, but I'm a pretty good floater.  I swam southward in the chop for a hundred yards.  Then in half-way and out again for a brief swim.  I think I'm doing the right thing--just short distances and building back up over time.  I'm planning on a lot of time. 


"The first time you quit is the last time you try."

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