Three days in a row! I'm getting a tan.

     I parked near Pappy's and walked down to Surfrider again today.  Just like yesterday--the beach conditions, that is. 

     I felt better in the water.  Taking it easy.  Just remembering how one swims in the ocean--how one swims under the waves as they wash over--how one kicks and works the arm reach & pull.

     Same moderate rip current to the north.  Less people there (Monday) to clog things up.  I didn't dare go out to the outside break yet.  With fins--yes; without fins--no.

     Walking up the hill to my car I started reminiscing about that ocean water in Hawaii.  I sure missed out on a lot.  I was preparing to begin a Navy SCUBA school at Pearl Harbor way back when and I got shipped back due to two lumbar fractures (rodeo bucking horse).  But my good buddies stayed and I can only imagine the beautiful and exciting dives they had there.  What a cool place. 

     I'll plan for a dip tomorrow.


"The first time you quit is the last time you try."